Stone care guides

Marble is acid-sensitive — even a splash of lemon, vinegar, or wine can etch it. Here's the pH-neutral routine that won't dull the polish.

Granite is durable but its sealer isn't — harsh cleaners strip it in months. The right daily wipe-down keeps both the stone and the seal intact.

True quartzite is harder than granite but still benefits from neutral cleaning. Skip the citrus sprays and you'll keep its glassy finish.

Limestone is porous and reacts to acid like marble. A soft, neutral cleaner is the only safe choice — here's the routine and what to avoid.

Travertine's natural pits trap dirt and acid. The right cleaning method lifts grime without forcing it deeper into the stone.

Slate is forgiving but flaky — aggressive scrubbing peels off layers. A gentle damp-mop routine keeps the texture and color intact.

Soapstone is non-porous and easy to clean, but mineral oil care changes the rules. Here's how to wipe down without stripping the patina.

Sandstone is highly porous and stains fast. The cleaning method matters less than how quickly you blot — here's the right routine.

Onyx is soft, acid-sensitive, and often backlit — visible streaks are unforgiving. A microfiber + neutral cleaner routine is the only way.

Engineered quartz is durable, but its resin binder hates bleach, abrasives, and direct heat. Here's the daily routine that keeps the surface flawless.

Marble drinks water and oil faster than most stones. Test, seal, dwell, wipe — here's the full process and how often to repeat.

Some granites need yearly sealing; others go five years. The water test tells you for sure — then this is exactly how to apply.

Many slabs sold as quartzite are actually marble. The water test is your first move — here's how to seal it once you've confirmed.

Limestone needs more frequent sealing than marble — sometimes twice a year. Use this sealer choice and dwell time to get it right.

Filled and unfilled travertine seal differently. Here's how to handle the pits and the field, and how to know when it's time to reseal.

Slate sealing changes the look — enhancers darken the stone, topical sealers add sheen. Pick the right one before you apply.

Sandstone is extremely porous and needs aggressive sealing, sometimes two coats. Here's how to flood-seal without leaving a hazy residue.

Onyx is fragile and translucent — the wrong sealer leaves visible patches under the light. Here's the conservative approach that works.

Marble polishing powder fills micro-scratches and brings back the gloss. Here's the DIY method and when the damage is past saving.

Granite polishing is mostly about the sealer haze — true repolishing is a pro job. Here's what you can DIY versus what to hand off.

Real quartzite resists polishing because it's so hard — diamond pads are the only option. Here's the DIY route and the realistic limits.

Limestone holds a honed finish better than a polished one. Here's how to restore the soft sheen most owners actually want.

Polishing travertine means filling pits first, then buffing the field. Skip the prep and you'll just highlight every hole.

Onyx polishing is high-risk — too much pressure cracks the slab. Here's the careful approach and when to stop and call a pro.

Oil sinks into marble fast and darkens the stone. A baking soda poultice draws it back out — here's the recipe and dwell time.

Red wine stains marble within minutes. Hydrogen peroxide poultice + the right wait time pulls the color back out of the pores.

Rust on marble is one of the toughest stains — and acid removers destroy the finish. Here's the only stone-safe method that actually works.

Water rings on marble are usually etch marks, not stains. Here's how to tell the difference and the polishing-powder fix for both.

Granite's sealer slows oil absorption, but it doesn't stop it. A baking soda poultice lifts the stain out without harming the seal.

Sealed granite resists wine, but old or worn seal lets it through. Hydrogen peroxide poultice — here's the safe approach for granite specifically.

Rust on granite usually means iron deposits inside the stone, not just on the surface. Here's the slow poultice method and when it won't fully clear.

Water rings on granite are almost always trapped minerals or worn sealer. Identify which one — then apply the right fix.

Limestone is highly porous and oil migrates underground fast. Multiple poultice cycles are usually needed — here's the patient method.

Wine and limestone are a nightmare combo — both stain and etch. Lift the color first, then deal with the dull spot. Here's the order.

Rust on limestone calls for the gentlest possible poultice. Skip the iron removers — they'll dissolve the stone along with the stain.

Most water rings on limestone are etch marks. Here's the test to confirm, and the gentle polish that restores the sheen.

Travertine's pits trap oil deep — a single poultice rarely works. Here's the layered method that gets it out for good.

Wine pools in travertine pits and stains both deep and wide. Treat the pit and the field separately — here's the technique.

Rust on travertine sits inside the natural cavities. The gentlest poultice and the longest dwell time — that's the only path.

Water rings on travertine usually mean mineral deposit, not damage. Here's the safe descaling approach that won't strip the finish.

Etch marks are dissolved spots, not stains — polishing powder is the fix. Here's the DIY method and the etch depth that means you call a pro.

Light scratches on marble buff out with fine compound. Here's the technique that won't create a glossy "patch" visible in the light.

Chips on marble are repaired with color-matched stone epoxy, not glue. Here's how to mix the color and feather the fill flush.

True etching on granite is rare — most "etches" are sealer damage. Here's how to tell the difference and the fix for each.

Granite scratches are hard to make and harder to fix — they usually need diamond pads. Here's what you can do at home and what needs a pro.

Chipped granite edges are common around sinks. Stone epoxy + color match is the standard fix — here's how to get the color invisible.

Limestone etches more easily than marble. Polishing powder works, but only on honed finishes — here's the right approach for each finish.

Limestone scratches blend more easily because the stone is uniform. Fine compound + light pressure — here's the method.

Limestone chips often crumble at the edges. Stabilize first, then fill with color-matched epoxy. Here's the order.

Etch marks on travertine often look like new pits. Polishing powder works on filled areas — here's how to tell when it's time to refill instead.

Travertine scratches are usually deeper than they look. Fine compound buffs the surface but won't touch deep gouges — here's the threshold.

Travertine chips at the edges of natural pits constantly. Color-matched epoxy is the answer — here's how to keep it from looking like a patch.